Apart from its proximity to Haneda Airport, I got to know about Kamata (蒲田), a district in Ota Ward (大田区) southeast of Tokyo, through my recent visits to several Filipino resto-bars in the area. Some people claim that this place has a reputation for being "unsafe" for tourists and locals alike, but I have never really felt the same having been there several times at night. Despite its reputation, my experiences in Kamata have been nothing short of delightful. From cozy bars to vibrant local hangouts, shops, and restaurants, Kamata offers a unique charm that defies its infamous label.

The Kamata district exudes a distinctive vibe compared to the main tourist spots around Tokyo. Once you get off the station, you can easily feel the retro atmosphere from the nearby shopping arcades reminiscent of Japan’s old days. Exploring these areas offers a glimpse into the diverse offerings Kamata has in store.

Recently, a Japanese friend suggested we visit Kamata to conclude Japan’s Golden Week by exploring a place he found very intriguing. He showed me a TV show that featured many interesting things about the area, including so-called kuroyu (black hot springs). Thanks to my sister’s Japanese family, I have been to several modern and traditional hot spring bathing facilities in Japan. But I have never really soaked in a black hot bath containing what Japanese locals call kuromizu (black water). Intrigued, and having overcome my inhibitions about visiting onsens, I became eager to see the place firsthand.

So, we went to Kamata Onsen, conveniently a 10 to 15-minute stroll from JR Kamata Station. Most signs and explanations were in Japanese, so I was grateful for the company of my Japanese friend. Upon entering, the interior gives you a traditional atmosphere with the usual shoe lockers to welcome you as you enter. A ticket vending machine at the entrance offered additional services like sauna access and provisions for toiletries and bath towels. After stowing our shoes, we proceeded to the front desk, presented our tickets, and deposited the shoe locker keys. It is also where the staff handed us our bath towels.

The bathhouse offers traditional amenities, including a shower area, cold and hot baths, resting areas, and a sauna. The highlight, of course, was the black hot spring water. The bathhouse contained side-by-side tubs with the dark water, one at approximately 43°C and the other at around 47°C. After the customary body cleansing rituals, it was time to soak.

As soon as I dipped, I realized that the water wasn't truly black but rather dark brown and odorless. However, due to its concentration, it appeared black from a distance. It was also hotter than the usual 39°C to 42°C onsen water temperature range. The dark-colored hot spring water left visible brown residues and stains on the onsen’s walls and floor, and to our amusement, it quickly stained the small bath towels we had brought along.

As we immersed ourselves in the dark water, a man in his 60s overheard us speaking English and grew curious. He asked if we were foreigners, to which my friend clarified that he was Japanese and I was Filipino. The man then continued to share information about the onsen while encouraging us to try the hotter tub. While I was hesitant due to my low heat tolerance, my companion, being a local, was quick to oblige. Intrigued by the water's darkness, we decided to do some research.

According to the travel site Live Japan, the dark water comes from a cold mineral spring of humic acid that draws its minerals from leaves and grass. These are said to be remnants of the Palaeozoic era that dissolved into the groundwater. Apart from its warming effect, it is said that these kinds of hot spring waters are called beautiful skin springs due to several skin health benefits. I've also learned that Tokyo boasts other renowned black hot springs, such as those in Asakusa, Ogikubo, and Chofu, each known for their unique charm. And just like in Kamata, I'm eager to try them all in the future.

After enjoying a relaxing soak in the dark waters, we met the elderly gentleman once more in the lobby. He eagerly shared more stories, mentioning that the Kamata district once boasted more onsens which have gradually dwindled over time. He also proudly told us that Kamata Onsen features the darkest spring water among the district's black onsens. Additionally, we learned that earlier that day, a TV station from Osaka had filmed inside the establishment. From our conversation with him and our own experience, it's evident that the onsen continues to be a favorite among locals and hot spring enthusiasts alike. After the short chitchat, we finally left the place to grab some local craft beer to cap the relaxing night.

My visit to Kamata Onsen was another eye-opening experience as an overseas Filipino. It allowed me to immerse myself further in Japanese culture and age-old traditions. Furthermore, the unique atmosphere and warm hospitality of the locals made the visit memorable. The intriguing black hot spring water, coupled with the stories shared by the elderly gentleman, added a fascinating note to this experience.

For some people, the Kamata district may not be a typical tourist destination, but it certainly holds its unique charm for those willing to explore beyond the beaten path.

Interior photos courtesy of Kamata Onsen

http://kamataonsen.on.coocan.jp/