JEEP TRIPS

By jade pangilinan

Holiday Economics in the Philippines

A few weeks ago Philippine President Gloria Macapagal Arroyo issued another executive order proclaiming additional holidays for this year during the Ramadan season of our Muslim brothers. Last week we feasted on long weekends brought about by Araw ng Kagitingan which was moved to April 6 and the observance of the Holy Week or Semana Santa. Indeed this administration has become popular for its so-called holiday economics.

With longer weekends to travel, I do hope that Filipinos also have the financial capacity to take advantage of these vacation periods in the midst of the global economic crisis.

Is it possible for a family of 6 to enjoy a road trip for less than P 2,000.00 these days? Mulling over this question we decided to take my nephews and niece to a day trip to Bataan province, retracing the Death March route and awakening our senses on cultural wonders.

We loaded 500 pesos worth of unleaded gasoline at the Shell Station along Jose Abad Santos Avenue in San Fernando en route to Bataan. After reaching the town of Hermosa we decided to take Mac Arthur Hiway to see the historic churches in the towns of Orani and Abucay.

Luckily for us, lunch was spent in Balanga City with our relatives in Bagumbayan. We feasted on delectable seafood like alimasag and shrimps, with green mango salad topped with bagoong. Other affordable places to eat in Balanga are Big Papa’s Kitchen which serves bulalo and a branch of the famous Dulang known for its eat-all-you-can at 99 pesos.

Whenever in Balanga it is always a must for our family to stop at the public market, which is not only organized but offers a lot of cheap but quality seafood fare. For a little over 500 pesos we were able to buy 50 pesos worth of bagoong, 20 pesos worth of rock salt, one half kilo of tuyo for 125 pesos, one kilo of alimasag for 70 pesos, half kilo of balanak for 60 pesos, one half kilo of shrimps for 125 pesos and one kilo of hasa-hasa for 70 pesos. This quantity will keep a family well-fed for a good couple of days. Of course it is advisable to bring your own cooler with ice to keep the seafood fresh throughout the drive home.

From Balanga City we headed to Mt. Samat in Pilar town to see the Dambana ng Kagitingan, a National Historical Shrine. This is a good way to educate kids about history. I had my nephews and niece read the epic of Bataan, which is etched in marble, for them to appreciate the heroism of Filipino and American soldiers during the Second World War. The museum, which has pictorial reproductions and war artifacts, is also open for public viewing.

The base of the cross itself features sculptural works depicting famous scenes and personages from Philippine history done by National Artist Napoleon Abueva.

The Dambana ng Kagitingan will set you back around 30 pesos per person, including the fee for the elevator ride in the 92 meter-high cross where the view itself is magnificent. Add another 30 pesos to that for parking fee.

On the way home we decided to drop by three more heritage churches in Pampanga: San Agustin in Lubao, Santiago de Apostol in Betis, Guagua and San Guillermo in Bacolor. These are cultural resources that we may avail of for free or for a minimal cost if you decide to give a little donation.

San Agustin Church was renovated some years back for the wedding of presidential son Mikey Arroyo to Angela Montenegro but is really one of the more beautiful and historic churches in the province. The Betis Church is known as our local version of the Sistine Chapel with its intricate ceiling paintings and main altar. It is also one of the 26 churches listed as National Cultural Treasures in the entire Philippines. San Guillermo in Bacolor is popular because it has withstood the onslaught of lahar and more recently, because it is the setting for the television series “May Bukas Pa”.

Back in San Fernando I computed the expenses for the entire day, including the snacks and meals for a very hungry bunch, and much to my delight we spent less than two thousand pesos for a whole day’s explorations. Thank goodness for the simple economics of a holiday.

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Iloilo Revisited

Famous for its Dinagyang Festival, La paz Batchoy, Pancit Molo, Biscocho and other mouth-watering goodies, Iloilo is a haven for local and foreign tourists alike. It is one of the best places to visit in the Philippines.

I have been to Iloilo several times and on each of my visits, I make wonderful discoveries which make me want to come back for more. The last time I went to Cabatuan town with my mum to spend time with family friends in celebration of her birthday.

It was a pleasant surprise to see the new Iloilo airport which makes travel more convenient for those visiting the province and the region. While the airport is in the Cabatuan town area, easy access to transportation services can get you to the Iloilo City proper without any delays.

While Iloilo City is a highly-urbanized area, you can enjoy its many attractions without the hassles of urban traffic jams.

My favorite must-see places in the city proper include the Jaro Cathedral and the heritage houses in each of Iloilo city's districts. It is a city that is rich in cultural and historical heritage that its people are preserving for future generations.

If you happen to be in Iloilo City anytime soon, have a meal at Tatoy's near the beach area, famous for its delectable sea food cuisine. For pasalubong and goodies to bring home, the place to go to is the Original Biscocho Haus which offers a wide array of goodies aside from biscocho which goes perfectly with coffee like pinasugbo, piyaya, garlic bread, crinkles.

An added charm of Iloilo and its environs are the old churches and plaza complexes which one could find in almost every town. The Santo Tomas de Villanueva Church in Miag-ao town is listed as a World Heritage Site under the Baroque Churches of the Philippines, with a very impressive and formidable faade that showcases the unique artistry and spirituality of our early forefathers.

Iloilo is also one of the most historic places in our country. Each of its towns usually has their own community museums and commemorative markers that highlight the greatness of their heroes. Santa Barbara for example is the site of the first Philippine flag raising outside of Luzon and honors Martin Delgado as its revolutionary hero. Iloilo is also the birth place of Graciano Lopez Jaena, the first editor of La Solidaridad, an outstanding orator and reformist leader.

One of the least popular sites frequented by tourists are the local public markets, usually because of the stench and the chaos, but in Iloilo province market days in different towns are treasure troves waiting to be explored.

I was able to visit the public market in Santa Barbara and had a great time shopping for various kinds of dried fish and even ginamos, their local version of fish paste which is very tasty. Those who are fond of danggit, tuyo, pusit and the like will surely find themselves in fish heaven.

If you have a free weekend anytime soon, take the next plane bound for Iloilo and discover its endless wonders.

Kalalangan Kapampangan: Creating Art Spaces for Kapampangan Artists

As part of this year's Sinukwan Festival celebration, led by the Save Pampanga Movement, an exhibit entitled Kalalangan Kapampangan was launched to highlight the works and achievements of some of Pampanga's best artists. The exhibit ran from December 2 to December 6, 2008 at the San Fernando Gate Atrium at Robinsons Starmills, City of San Fernando, Pampanga.

Kalalangan Kapampangan showcases art works done by a number of contemporary Kapampangan artists who have made it in the national, and even international, art scene and whom we could be proud of. Half of the artists are Most Outstanding Kapampangan Awardees for Visual Arts, while the rest are winners in various national and international art competitions.

The exhibit is a testament to the excellence of the Kapampangans in the visual arts and seeks to inspire the next generation of artists in the province.

The artists who participated in the exhibit were Ruston Banal Jr., Edillardo Paras, Norman Tiotuico, Angelo Melo, Gelo Espiritu, Teta Tayag-Capitulo, Ronald Salazar, Noel Lopez Catacutan, Conderlos Lingat, Don Reich De Dios, Allen Moran, Alvaro Jimenez and Willy Layug.

Ruston Banal Jr. is a professional photographer and graphic artist who is a magna cum laude in Fine Arts from the University of the Philippines. He won first place in the 2007 Philippine Airlines Photo Contest and bagged another prize in the photo contest organized by the National Geographic Society this year.

Edille Paras is a senior member of the Pampanga Arts Guild and a Most Outstanding Kapampangan Awardee for the Arts in 1996. Known for his optic art series, he has won Honorable Mentions in the Metrobank Annual Painting Competition and the Art Association of the Philippines Annual Competitions.

Long Melo is another active member of the PAG and a recognized advocate of indigenous art forms. He was the grand prize winner in the Diwa ng Sining competition organized by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts for his fiber art master piece "Bulung Ding Aeta."

Alvaro Jimenez of Bacolor and San Fernando is the foremost Kapampangan authority on the rare art form of letras y figuras, a painting tradition that dates back to the 18th century. His works are featured in Ayala Museum greeting cards and have been exhibited at the National Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Manila. He was also the Most Outstanding Kapampangan for Visual Arts in 1990.

Noel Lopez Catacutan of Minalin is an artist who has gained quite a following at the national art scene for his works on traditional Filipino folk arts. He was as a director in the Art Association of the Philippines from 2002 to 2008. In his college days he was a consistent winner in the UST Annual Competitions and won an Honorable Mention in the First Saudia Airlines Painting Competition.

Don De Dios is an Information Officer at the Department of Environment and Natural Resources Region 3. He is also a pioneer of the Kalinangan Telabastagan art group in San Fernando and a cartoonist for Central Luzon Newsweek. He won the Juror's Choice in the GSIS National Painting Competition and an honorable mention in the AAP Annual Competition- sculpture category.

Willy Layug of Guagua, Pampanga received the Most Outstanding Kapampangan Award for sculpture in 2003. A potential National Living Treasure awardee for the wood carving tradition for which Betis is famous, he is one of the most recognized ecclesiastical artists in the Philippines today. Despite his many commissioned works here and abroad, he continues to improve his craft through rigorous trainings in Spain on sculpture and restoration techniques.

Norman Tiotuico is the recipient of the Most Outstanding Kapampangan Award for Arts and Culture in 2008 and is a former president of the Pampanga Arts Guild. Some of his commissions include the San Fernando Historic Timeline and the Pasbul ning Kasalesayan at the San Fernando City Hall.

Gelo Espiritu is a well-respected primemover of the Pampanga Arts Guild and a Most Outstanding Kapampangan Awardee for the Visual Arts. While based abroad these days, he remains to be a resounding voice in the Kapampangan Arts Movement.

Conderlos Lingat is an esteemed member of the Kalalangan Telabastagan art movement and won an honorable mention in the Philip Morris Annual Art Awards. Known for his affinity for Indian influences, his works mostly embrace indigenous art forms.

Ron Salazar is Kapampangan artist who is popular in national art circles. He was a grand prize winner in the AAP Annual Art Competition - Sculpture Category and an honorable mention in the Shell National Students Art Competition, two of the most prestigious art contests in the country. His latest commissioned works include the official standard for the relic of St. Rita de Cascia in his hometown of Sta. Rita.

The only female in the group, but equally brilliant nonetheless, is Teta Tayag Capitulo. She won second prize in an international competition organized by the United States Olympic Committee and the United States Sports Academy for the Athens Olympics in 2004. She had the honor of representing the country in an ASEAN Sculpture exhibition held in Brunei Darusalam.

Aside from the exhibit, an on the spot painting contest was held for the young artists of Pampanga who will carry on the legacy of Kalalangan Kapampangan. Winners for the high school level were Jerome Manalang, Alkhem Moran and Lorena Villareal while the college level winners were Alwena Moran and Mario Salamat Jr.

My High Regard for Magalang

One of the trendy things to do on weekends is to go on out-of-town trips to places off the beaten path. With the rising gas prices nowadays, the only thing I could afford lately is a road trip to towns in Pampanga that I have not or have rarely visited. On a drizzly Sunday afternoon I found myself on the road to Magalang.

Nestled at the foot on majestic Mount Arayat, the quaint and bucolic town of Magalang is home to the Pampanga Agricultural Colleges -- our answer to the University of the Philippines in Los Banos, Laguna or Central Luzon State University in Munoz, Nueva Ecija in terms of having an idyllic and verdant campus and an academe that specializes in the fields of agriculture, forestry or agronomy. PAC is one of the nicer places to study in Pampanga, given its ambiance and the fact that it is a state college.

Magalang is also becoming increasingly famous for Abe's Farm in Barangay Ayala that offers not only great food but relaxation as it has a branch of Nurture Spa in its compound.

This particular afternoon's trip was a feast for my eyes. From the main highway I saw Mount Arayat with a misty veil that lent it a mysterious air. I could not help but notice that Magalang lives up to its reputation as a clean and green municipality (at one point the province's best) with its tree-lined roads and still mainly agricultural economic activities.

One of the charms of Magalang lies in its plaza, one of the better preserved ones in the province, with a public square in the midst of the old municipal building and the St. Bartholomew church.

On the day of my visit, the plaza was surrounded by Tiangge stalls selling everything imaginable and affordable for the town's folk. The church parking lot was deserted for the Sunday afternoon and the church itself was not open at that hour. However, from the outside the church faade itself will satisfy a tourist's picture frenzy or a heritage enthusiast's curiosity. A marker notes that the church had celebrated its quadricentennial in 2005, a testament to its historicity and strengthens the church's place at the heart of the townspeople's religious activities.

Not in a condescending sense really but Magalang has retained a small town feel that San Fernando lacks with its speedy pace of urbanization. Near the town's public market are old houses, which could qualify as heritage structures, that have been developed for adaptive re-use, whether for commercial or professional purposes.

Even the municipal hall itself, while unpretentious and austere, is elegant in its old age. The faade would have been picture-perfect save for the usual streamer that loudly bears the name of local politicians.

A stone's throw away from the munisipyo is an iconic Magalang tradition -- Pabalan's Delicacies. Started in 1963 by the Pabalan Family and passed on through generations from their matriarch Apung Isang to her son Mariano's children who are presently running the business, their pastillas de leche is possibly the best in Pampanga. Made from fresh carabao's milk and the finest white sugar, cooked under slow fire the traditional way, the pastillas melts heavenly in one's mouth and makes one forget of the calories it brings.

I am reminded that even if Magalang of late has been the subject of squabbles for power among its petty plutocracy, it is also the hometown of great and talented men and women of recent past -- writer and artist E. Aguilar Cruz, restaurateur Larry J. Cruz, Kapampangan author and scholar Dr. Evangelina Hilario Lacson to name a few. Among the best leaders that the Kapampangan youth has produced, who happens to hail from Magalang, is Dennis Cunanan, former UP student leader and now Deputy Director General for Technology and Livelihood Resource Center.

There is so much to Magalang that gives me such high regard for it, whether it's the people, the food, or just the simply pleasurable experience of driving to the town on a seemingly uneventful Sunday.

Crucifixions in San Pedro Cutud

Throughout the year, the community of San Pedro Cutud in the City of San Fernando, Pampanga, Philippines is quiet and bucolic. But during the Holy Week, it comes alive and all eyes are on the community as it takes centerstage - welcome to the Crucifixion Capital of the Philippines.

Highly Christianized because of its colonial history, the Philippines has persisting traditions in observance of the Holy Week during which the passion and death of Jesus Christ is remembered by the Catholics. However, the observance of Christian faith is given an extreme interpretation by some people in the community of San Pedro Cutud as they have themselves crucified – literally nailed on a wooden cross – as expressions of their devotion, to ask for penitence or indulgences for special requests, or to fulfill a vow.

It all starts with a street play in Kapampangan entitled “Via Crucis”, which translates into way of the cross, written by an amateur playwright named Ricardo Navarro (the only one he wrote in his lifetime) in the early 1950s. This performance depicts the passion of Christ and is staged in the streets of San Pedro Cutud, culminating in with the crucifixion in a man-made hill to denote Calvary within the community.

It was in 1962 when the first actual crucifixion took place when a quack doctor named Artemio Anoza had himself nailed to fulfill his dream of becoming a healer. Since then, the crucifixions have gained international fame and began to draw huge crowds every year.

The number of penitents who pledge themselves for this seemingly gory act has been increasing. Last year alone, there were 16 penitents who were nailed and stayed on the cross for about two to three minutes each under the horrible heat of noon. A few years back there were also female penitents who had themselves crucified, while a British national made an attempt to join the other year but backed out at the last minute.

In recent times, last Holy Week included, Ruben Enaje who hails from the community has been playing the role of Christ for more than a decade. Sporting long curly locks reminiscent of Jesus himself, Enaje keeps his nails which he uses every year in a jar filled with ordinary isopropyl alcohol. Interestingly, to date not one among those who have been nailed complains of suffering from infections but to keep them safe the City Government has been giving anti-tetanus shots to penitents and sterilizing the nails which they utilized.

Locals and tourists alike who flock to witness this Holy Week ritual are filled with awe or a simply shocked on this practice of the people of San Pedro Cutud. Where else in the world can you find people who go to the extent of imitating Christ’s pain at the cross as an expression of their beliefs.

While the Catholic Church in the Philippines has kept mum on this practice, the people in that community persistently uphold the spectacle that has become a vital part of their local tradition and way of life.

The Genial Town of Glan

The image of the gleaming stretch of powdery white sand in Gumasa remains vividly etched in my mind up to this time, but it has been months since I went there for the first time. This is not Boracay I am talking about but a destination off the beaten track – Glan in the province of Saranggani, Philippines.

Saranggani is becoming famous for its marine products, processed or otherwise. Tuna that is caught in its bountiful bay is being exported to European countries and our Asian neighbors.

I have always been fascinated by the south, Mindanao and its realm, since my family moved to Cotabato in the late nineties but the province of Saranggani used to be a mere part of my elusive dream. This changed when I met a friend in the person of Board Member Art Lawa of the Provincial Government of Saranggani who was gushing with pride about his home province and its wealth of wonders.
I visited Saranggani last year with my cousins since it is quite accessible, a mere 15 – minute drive from General Santos City, if you go as far as Alabel where the massively impressive provincial capitol is situated and one could enjoy the fresh offerings of Isla Parilla Resort.

However, the real gem of Saranggani lies in the quaint and genial town called Glan, standing like a silent but resounding fortress at the edge of southwestern Mindanao.

I learned from the accommodating Tourism Focal Person of the Local Government Unit of Glan Joel Toledo that the town is home to a conglomeration of various ethno-linguistic groups: B’laan, Cebuano, Ilonggo, and even Indonesians to cite a few, an odd assortment of culture that give the town a charming ambiance that is distinctly its own. The people are warm and friendly, and easily approachable.

The lure of Glan is also eminent in the ancestral houses lined up along Alegado Street in the Poblacion area. Some of the houses are century – old while others were built in the post-war years, with characteristic elements of style not found elsewhere in the Philippines, as exemplified by the intricately done callado details. Sadly though, according to some locals some of the houses have been demolished and several are in a state of disrepair.

Paradise for sun worshippers starts a few minutes from the poblacion area, in the coastal barangays of the town such as Gumasa and Ilaya. Gumasa reminds me so much of Boracay, sans the crowd and the garbage. Imagine having the beach all to yourself and your friends.

Walking along the shore, my feet sink in the carpet of sand. Sand effortlessly slips through one’s fingers, in almost radiant milkiness, in my attempt to grasp it. It got me thinking wistfully that it must the same particles that fill an hourglass.

The only fear I had while beaching in Glan dwelled on the possibility that in the near future the unspoiled natural beauty will be pockmarked with destructive blemishes. If any development is to be implemented at all in the area which has been identified as a priority area for investment, it must be comprehensive and sustainable at the same time.

In the meantime, the still unpolished gem that is Glan gently waits to be rediscovered and treasured.

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The Giant Lanterns of
San Fernando, Pampanga

Experiencing Christmas in the Philippines will not be complete without the colorful blinking lanterns that adorn homes and commercial buildings. Indeed one of the most striking images of the Paskong Pinoy tradition aside from the “belen” and “simbang gabi” is the parol that finds its roots in the City of San Fernando, Pampanga.

The lantern industry in the city is an offshoot of the Giant Lantern Festival, locally known as the Ligligan Parul (“lantern showdown”), which in turn is said to be intensely rooted in the religious procession known today as the “lubenas” (a corruption of the Spanish term “novena”) which usually took place during the nine-day novena before Christmas which coincided with the dawn masses known as the Simbang Gabi. After the midnight mass, the people from the different barrios gathered at the town plaza to watch the lanterns pit against each other for the lantern showdown which objective was to see the lantern that would outlast all others. The people from the barangays would watch to see the last lantern standing.

Through the years, the size of the lanterns brought out during the last nights of the lubenas grew bigger and bigger, with the designs becoming more intricate and colorful. By means of concerted community effort, each barrio began creating one big lantern that became a symbol of the community, serving as an emotional anchor for each person who contributed to making it. According to veteran lantern makers such as Erning Quiwa and Roland Quiambao, when electricity was introduced in San Fernando by 1931, lantern makers began creating work of arts that now featured the dancing interplay of lights controlled by individual switches. These switches were later replaced by steel barrels called rotors which control the lighting of the bulbs in tune to the music, creating the illusion that the lights dance to the Christmas songs or band marches. From the traditional rice paper (papel de japon), lantern makers also started utilizing colored plastic while the bamboo frames were replaced by steel ones. Since the dawn of the new millennium, the giant lanterns of San Fernando have taken the standard size of 18 feet in diameter, composed of 2000 to 3000 bulbs. Such a gargantuan work of art takes several months to finish, in preparation for the most awaited part of the holidays when the lanterns take center stage.

This year, ten barangays of the city will participate anew in the Giant Lantern Festival competition on December 15, 2007, striving to continue an extravagant Christmas tradition that finds its home in San Fernando, the Christmas Capital of the Philippines.

For more details you may email citytourism@cityofsanfernando.gov.ph or call the city tourism office of san fernando, pampanga at +6345 9615684.